Texts for Translation 2011:
  Frances Logan

Reminiscences

Frances Logan

Cold, hard and totally professional, this was my first experience of Russia. After our long journey from Glasgow and landing in Moscow’s Domodedovo Airport, this experience was with a stern customs officer who seemed to take rather a long time checking my passport before eyeing me up and down.  I was tired, after all I had been travelling for over nine hours.  I felt ill at ease.  I tried to smile to lessen the tension but this was definitely not reciprocated.  If anything, his demeanour seemed to become even more rigid.  I quickly wiped the smile from my face, in case I would be taken aside for further inspection or interrogation.  Not a good start to my visit.  I was really apprehensive.  For many in this country, the United Kingdom, the national stereotypical character of the Russian people is judged to be glum, formal, stand-offish, hardworking, strong and proud.  In that experience, all of these traits were wrapped up and embodied in this one single person.

Later that same evening I was able to get a glimpse of the real Russian character – open, warm and welcoming.  The members of our group met up with some young people in a restaurant, these generous folk had given of themselves and their time to help a group of weary travellers.  They were mostly from the city of Perm but are now living and working in Moscow.  A pleasant evening ensued; eating, drinking and chatting and at the end of the night, I was given a comfortable bed in the home of Julia, a young woman I’d only just met.  Early the next morning I woke to a delicious breakfast including freshly baked bread which Julia had made in ‘the wee small hours’ – giving up her sleep to ensure her guest was well looked after.  Julia then took me to meet up with the others, who had lodged in other accommodations. Once again, I was taken deep down into the bowels of the earth into the amazing Moscow Metro – a feat of engineering and precision.  Soon we were in the centre of Moscow I was a total gobsmacked tourist.  Julia showed me The Changing of the Guard, Red Square and took me to part of the service in Kazan Cathedral.  The latter was because I’d heard the beautiful singing and just wanted to linger and listen a little longer.  So, thanks to Julia, not only did I hear the singing but was also able to appreciate more fully the harmonies involved, the religious Icons and the whole reverent ambiance of the service.  I have a snapshot of that experience firmly embedded in my mind’s eye.

From such highs, the contrasts with the lows in life seem even more marked.  Just a few hours afterwards I was to experience one of the most terrifying experiences of my life.  As a group, we from Glasgow and our Moscow hosts were walking down Arbat - a busy pedestrian street.  It was crowded and we walked in small groups of three or four chatting.  Often we were split up by the crowds only to join up again or join another small group. Of course, once again, I was trying to capture every moment to store in my memory.  Suddenly I realised I was alone.  I paused, looked round and waited for a few moments but still could not see any of our party of eight.  I continued to walk in the same direction as we had been heading – but no, I still couldn’t see anyone I recognised.  How are we able to feel utterly and completely alone in the midst of a heaving throng?  My heart started thumping louder and louder but still I kept on walking down the road, pausing every few metres to look round and scan all the faces surrounding me.  I tried to contact Michael by phone but his phone was out of bounds.  I kept on walking hoping to find others.  I couldn’t read the street signs, I couldn’t speak Russian to ask a stranger for help, but most of all in my panic I couldn’t remember the name of the station from which our train for Perm was leaving.  Anyway, even if I did, I didn’t know how to get there – I couldn’t read, write or speak the language there was no way of communicating.  I was a stranger – a lone stranger.  I kept on walking until I came to the end of the road.  The street divided into several branches. Which to take?  None!  My mouth was dry, my knees were trembling, my heart still pounding.  After pausing a few moments, I decided to retrace my steps.  Surely the others would have by now realised that one of the group was missing!  After walking back up the street a few minutes, I came across a group of women from our party.  Relief!  My knees then buckled and I almost collapsed in the middle of Moscow!

We journeyed onward to the city of Perm - and more examples of the warm and welcoming nature of the Russian people we were fortunate enough to meet.  The train from Moscow to Perm left exactly on time and ran completely to the timetable.  That is until a few minutes outside Perm.  The train ground to a halt and did not move for an hour.  I was stunned when we were met at the station by a group – people who had waited for over an hour to greet us with flowers and smiles.  Also waiting there was our host family, all truly wonderful warm people

A couple of days after that, whilst sitting in a café in Central Perm gazing out of the window, I noticed most were walking by, going about their daily business very briskly, very erect – with heads held high.  To me this seemed somewhat hazardous; the possibility of stumbling was rather high since the pavements were so uneven.  I also noted that many young and middle aged women were striding forth in very high – heeled boots thus raising the ante even further.  This led me to believe that some of my preconceived ideas on the typical Russian character were true – the people are strong and proud.

Thanks to a grant from Creative Scotland I was in Perm in October 2010 as a member of a small delegation representing S.L.A.T.E Charity.  We were there participating in the International Festival of Motherhood, (iFOM) organised by Glasgow’s Better Crack Storytelling Clubs, Michael Kerins and me. iFOM celebrates Motherhood in all forms and coincided with the hundredth anniversary of the birth of Michael’s mother. Some of these forms were obvious like the natural state of being a mother; others were more abstract such as mother-nature, mother of invention, mothers in storytelling and more abstractly men as mothers, giving birth to art – music – story. Our iFOM festival began on Mothers Day 2010 and ran until Mothers Day 2011.  As well as taking part in the festival, we were also continuing the good works of the S.L.A.T.E Charity and introducing wider and wider audiences to the joys of storytelling.

The day of the hundredth anniversary of the birth of Michael’s mother was to be a very special one – a day to mark and remember for both Michael, his sister Rona and indeed all the representatives of S.L.A.T.E Charity.  The day started with a visit to School 139, a school for blind and partially sighted children.  I was to start the programme and tell the first story of the day, I was rather concerned.  Would it work in another culture?  Would it work using a translator?  Would it work?  In the end, there was no need to worry.  The response from the children was overwhelming and as they laughed, jumped out their seats to get my attention and giggled with delight, it was easy to see that Yes!  It had worked.  I never imagined that I would ever visit Russia; let alone be surrounded by the laughter and excitement of a hall full of primary school children and be caught up in their enthusiasm as they listened to my tale.  With this, the wise words of Fyodor Dostoevsky spring to mind – ‘The soul is healed by being with children.’  In addition to sharing our stories and songs with pupils and staff, we were given a short tour of the school to view the great work the children and teachers were doing in a variety of subjects, including music, woodwork, arts and crafts.

Afterwards we attended the Perm State Pedagogical University for the presentation of awards for the Kerinsnaumov International Translation Prize and to perform and share stories with all. Another branch of the work of S.L.A.T.E Charity is its involvement with the Love’s Bridge Project working to assist the street children of Perm and we finished off that special day with a visit to the Project.  As you can imagine, that evening was one of celebration in the home of our hosts – the Kazakov family.

We had several days working in the Pedagogical University where we spent time collaborating with students and staff, all of whom were keen to practice their English and learn more about Scottish culture and traditions.  Of course, plenty of time was given to storytelling and the students showed great enthusiasm for what we had to share, so much that several students kindly offered to become tour guides to show us round the city.  We also managed to visit Perm State Technical University where we spent the morning with a wonderful storytelling concert.  Our journeys also took us to other local schools in Perm – School 9, (Pushkin School) and School 77.  Yet again, we were warmly received and made very welcome before telling stories to the pupils and staff in their classes and answering questions.  Some more time was dedicated to the practice of English in question and answer sessions with the teaching staff, assisting them in their knowledge and understanding of the English Language and Scottish culture. We were delighted to be entertained by the staff of School 9 when we were invited to a party in our honour in the home of one of the teachers. The warmth, gentleness and friendliness of our hosts shone through.  We were also made very welcome in School 77 when some pupils put on a concert and regaled us with songs from the works of Robert Burns – the most renowned Scottish poet and performed some fine Scottish dances. Towards the end of our visit to Russia, we also visited the Teacher Training College in Kungur.  Once again I was truly impressed by the welcome we received.  Of course, we couldn’t go to Kungur without visiting the famous Ice Caves.

One of the most unexpected joys of the whole tour; was the storytelling performance in The Pietrovski Bookshop in Lunacharskogo, in the middle of Perm.  The idea of live performances in a bookshop was a “novel” concept for those involved.  The owners of the shop were surprised and thrilled by the number of people who attended.  Even though it was a damp and chilly night, there was standing room only and the decision to keep the bookshop opened specifically for the event was met with great delight by all who participated.  We shared a variety of stories and socialised with audience members, including teachers and tutors from the schools and universities we had visited earlier in our travels.  I think we can safely say, Perm has been bitten by the storytelling bug and the proprietors of the bookshop seem keen to hold future events on the premises. This evening was to bring about another example of  generosity from a complete stranger when I was presented with a beautiful bouquet of roses by a young woman who promptly left after giving me the flowers but did not give me an explanation why she did so – an enigma but surprisingly beautiful.

A few words on our Perm hosts, the Kazakov family.  They proved to be extremely kind, patient and funny.  Not only did they open up their home to five people, four of whom they had never met before, but also they opened up their hearts and made us part of the family.  They fed us; introducing most of us to traditional Russian cuisine, they entertained us and they often chauffeured us to various venues and events.  They willingly sampled Scottish (and Italian) food and drink and were gracious in their praise – whether it was truly to their taste or not.  They also rejoiced with us when things went well and commiserated when they hadn’t gone as well as expected or when spanners were thrown into the works.

Although it now seems a distant dream it will always remain a dream that was realised and enjoyed.  I will never forget my first glimpse of Red Square in the centre of Moscow and seeing the magnificence of the brightly decorated Onion Domes of St Basil’s Cathedral through the Resurrection Gate.  This still fills me with a sense of awe and wonder when I browse through my many photographs of the trip.  Who could have imagined that I would have been given a guided tour of Diaghilev’s House by the museum curator and Dean Tatyana Germanovna Loginova, head of the Faculty of Foreign Languages at Perm State Pedagogical University, or afforded the opportunity to attend a performance of Swan Lake in Perm Opera House, the city which boasts the title of Russia’s second city of ballet? I may add, this performance was the finest I have ever seen in my life – I had tears in my eyes as Odette was lifted in the arms of Prince Siegfried.  In all, my experience of Russia and especially Perm, is one I will never forget; not only for the wonderful sights and experiences I shared, but also for the wonderful people I shared it with: the members of our delegation from S.L.A.T.E Charity Michael Kerins and Ian Ferguson and independent travellers Rona Barbour and Dominic Kerins as well as the students, staff and friends I met on my journeys. Special mention should be given to our host family who gave us their home as our own. Special thanks to the Korobeynikovs (Moscow) for organisation and hospitality they offered us as we made double transit visits through that marvellous city.  Of course, none of this would have been possible without the support Creative Scotland and S.L.A.T.E Charity, both of whom have my thanks and gratitude for enabling me to share in such a rich and wonderful experience which will remain with me for the rest of my life.

My new-found friends and acquaintances had shown me warmth, kindness, openness, generosity of spirit and have given me memories that will stay with me for ever.  So, has my attitude changed as to the generalisation of the Russian national character?  Certainly!



o Glum?  No.

o Formal?  Occasionally.

o Stand-offish? No, open and welcoming.

o Hardworking? Yes, definitely.

o Strong and proud?  Yes, extremely.

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